CYCLOWIZ FIRMWARE 3.0B ====================== FEATURES ======== Features: - Direct boot of NTSC Wii imports on NTSC consoles (no patch needed) - Direct boot of PAL Wii imports on NTSC consoles (no patch needed, partial compatibility) - Direct boot of NTSC Wii imports on PAL consoles (no patch needed, partial compatibility) - Runs imported GC games (partially without swap) - Perfect compatibility (100% of games are working) - Improved read (no more slowdowns) - Compatible with DVD-R, DVD+R, DVD-RW and DVD+RW (no bitsetting required) - Fully upgradable via DVD - Direct boot of Wii backups - Direct boot of GC backups - Direct boot of homebrew in GC mode - Possibility to put many GC games on just one disc (compatible with ALL formats) - Build-in audio fix (no patch required) - Compatible with Multi-Disc games for BOTH Wii and GC - Stealth mode INSTRUCTIONS ============ Do not upgrade if you already have firmware 3.0 installed as there are no new features except D2B support. Download the file corresponding to your Wii region, unzip it and burn the ISO file with Nero or a compatible tool. Run the disc on your Wii and follow the on-screen instructions. IMPORTANT ========= - Once flashed, do not install the chip in a Wii that has a different drive/wii version. This is due to the fact that drive revision and wii version are auto-detected by the upgrader and a corresponding flag is stored inside CycloWiz flash. It is currently not possible to change it manually but should be possible in a future upgrade. - If you turn off your console during the welcome screen or switch test screens, make sure it is in deep sleep mode for at lest 10 seconds, it won't recognise discs until you do it. If you have any doubts, unplug the console for 10 seconds. - If you get stuck in a Programming/Verifying loop for more than 10 cycles, it is likely that there is an installation problem with the S wire. You have to turn off the console to fix this, but make sure you never turn it off before trying at least a dozen cycles. If you have to turn it off, make sure you always do it right after the verify screen (if verify screen appears). - If you can see the LED of the chip, as long as it's ON or flashing, it should be safe to turn off the console even if you're told not to do it (make sure you unplug the console to avoid any issue). - Make sure the switch pads are not in contact with any metal part of the Wii, including shielding. If there is such a short circuit, the fuse next to the X point can blow and drive won't spin or eject anymore until you fix the fuse.